my travels

It was Tuesday. It was sunny and windy and I and my friends found ourselves in the most colorful by lanes of Fontainhas, Panjim. We reached there around 11:00 am and this part of Goa was indeed infatuating, charismatic, insouciant and peaceful. Narrow winding lanes, masses of bright bougainvillea flowers, and overhanging wooden balconies all together make you feel you are walking in Old Havana or New Orleans’ Latin Quarter.

Brightly colored houses are a characteristic feature of the Portuguese architectural influence, and Fontainhas is full of them. Deep azure blue houses with white trim, mustard yellow houses with slate-tiled roofs, maroon red houses with dark wood doors and balconies. Each one is unique, and many have names emblazoned on white-and-blue tiled plaques.

We had a jovial time at the Hygge Cafe, sipping on some golden coffees and gorging upon some healthy bruschettas, exploring the streets and talking over to the locals, visiting the infamous St. Sebastian Chapel and of course, engaging in some breathtaking photography what with those picture-perfect backgrounds. It’s a fascinating experience and also fun, as the historical area is peppered with places to eat and drink.

With all that done and as the sun was getting harsher, we decided to now head back to Anjuna where we were staying. Thank god, it was windy that day. The cool breeze gave relief from the humidity and within minutes almost all of us dozed off holding our tummies tight with those severe hunger pangs killing us.

The watch read 3:30 pm as the wind unfurled my silky hair. We were back in the Anjuna market. My friends were craving for some fish curry and rice. Oh well, and I was super hungry too but at the same time, I was craving something nice and sweet as well. We were walking past Monginis on the left and as I looked to the right, something fascinating and welcoming caught my eye. It looked light a lovely bohemian-styled restaurant, magnetic, bewitching, unpretentious yet beckoning me to the core. I just crossed the road and walked off towards it. Boho is my weakness and so is everything vintage, these kinds of interiors are so full of warmth and exude a distinct culture. It was here that I was going to enjoy my meal as I saw the word “vegan” on a blackboard hung on a beautifully textured wall outside with “Soul booster” in bold. Yes, that was the name of the restaurant. My gang walked off to find their perfect place for the fish curry and rice and I headed in.

Finding a vegan café in Goa is like trying to look for a needle in a haystack. After all, the coastal state is dotted with fishing villages and towns that offer plenty of opportunities to sample all manner of seafood. So, you can imagine the surprise when I found this great place in Anjuna.

The word ‘bohemian’ refers to someone who is socially unconventional and often involved in the arts, making it a great interior design option for a rich and heady space full of visual interest and a relaxed spirit and “Soul Booster” was everything that and more.

As I moved in, it was a lovely verandah kind of a structure, rectangular with an attractive wooden door in the center. The hippy days of the late 60s and early 70s are back with a vengeance, I thought as I walked in here. The place was full of bohemian elements – Fringe, crochet, and macramé abound—cushions, antique-looking artifacts, patterned fabrics, and throw-rugs combined to make a cozy, globally-inspired hangout. Canopies, being the signature Boho embellishment added to the beauty of the place also helping against the harsh sun. A Bohemian style interior is not complete without a statement piece of Mid-Century style furniture. I saw this and a lot more accent pieces as I entered through the door.

There was a room with a three-walled sofa compete with vibrant cushions, multicolored rugs, and a lower height center table. It was super cozy. As I moved ahead, I saw the kitchen on the left-hand side where a staff member was busy making a lovely salad. He was so deeply engrossed that I  didn’t even feel like disturbing him and as I turned back, I heard him say – “Hello mam, welcome to Soul Booster! Please feel free to explore.” I asked his name and he was Akesh, a very presentable and smart guy. There was also a counter where I could see big glass bottles of natural hemp seed oil, organic hemp seed packets and a lot of organic chocolates.

Right in front now was the open space, the main part of the restaurant. It was enticing to the level that it’s difficult to describe in words. I could see the bougainvillea, the white canopies, a whole lot of lovely greens hanging down from the canopies and giving the entire place the required shade and respite from the sun. I could also see lovely wooden tables, some distinct, bright fabrics that lay over the sofas, some amazing tall candle stands on the tables, and as I was admiring the place a cute little girl was running all around the area. As I stepped outside she was protectively held over by a short bearded guy who warmly smiled at me. “Hi, this is Lenny. Welcome to Soul booster. Please be comfortable, sit wherever you wish to. I will be right back”. I went ahead and found my perfect corner.

Boho is inspired by people who choose to lead an unconventional life such as constant travelers, actors, and writers and “Soul Booster” is just the right place for them. This aesthetic flies in the face of modern sensibilities and embraces the carefree, relaxed, and the unusual. The Bohemian style mirrors that life by combining objects, colors, and patterns from many areas of the world. I could see a lot of deep browns, greens, and grays with saturated purple, pinks, blacks, fiery orange, and electric blue here in the interiors. There were vintage items everywhere and each furniture piece told a story. There was also a pleasant table set up for two on my right. A very old world charm kind of a table set. It had a marble top and carved antique wooden chairs with stunning lights hanging from the greens above. A romantic corner!

As I was admiring all of this, Lenny came and placed a pedestal fan on my left. It helped ease off the heat though the sun was getting softer by now. He placed the menu on my table as well. After a thorough chit chat with him on the “Soul Booster” specials and the highly recommended stuff, I settled for the Vegan thali and the Johnny Bravo smoothie bowl. Since it was already late and I was dying out of hunger, the ice-cold water served to me helped ease off the headache I was experiencing. A little to my right were a bunch of ladies from other ethnicities relaxing and enjoying their vegan wine. They smiled as I waved off to them. There was an Indian couple seated diagonally opposite on a lovely black and white patterned fabric sofa. That was a splendid corner. The flowers of the bougainvillea fell on them as they enjoyed their conversations. It was a sight to behold. Everybody was just relaxed and enjoying their own time here.

Accessories like tapestries, vintage bottles, mismatched china—you name it, everything was there. Lanterns and lights featuring Moroccan design added comfort and visual interest to the place. Bohemian design thinks outside the box—it’s random, eclectic, and devoid of structure and order and Soul Booster was all of that and more. The spaces were bright, colorful, and patterned. Chairs and couches were plush and comfortable, inviting a sit back and lounge around kind of vibe. Potted plants, hanging plants, succulents, and ferns created a calming aesthetic in the space.

As I settled into my corner, I went about admiring every little thing in Soul Booster. Whether it was the way the names of the dishes were written on the board outside or the long recycled wood counter that was right in front of me with high bar stools.

Within a few minutes, Lenny came in “Here Snigdhaa, that’s your Vegan thali and smoothie bowl. Let me know if you need anything else”. The portion was good and I just didn’t know where to begin, the smoothie bowl or the thali. But that sweet tooth of mine, of course, forced me to dig into the smoothie bowl first. There were raw cacao, dates, banana, peanut butter, oats, and almond milk. I’ve been obsessed with breakfast bowls always! They are such a simple way to combine various flavors into one delicious bowl – and then you have the best excuse to load up on all your favorite toppings. I am used to eating tons of oatmeal bowls and rice pudding bowls at home sprinkled with my favorite fresh fruits, crunchy granola, chopped nuts, drizzles of homemade jam… the toppings are the best part, really!

But for this one, the toppings came second. This Chocolate Peanut Butter Smoothie Bowl tasted like DESSERT in a bowl. The first time I dunked a spoon in the bowl to give it a taste, I audibly breathed, “OHMYGOD”.

The very best part about this Smoothie Bowl was that it tasted like a treat, but it was so healthy! The base was frozen bananas, mixed with a little almond milk, peanut butter, cocoa powder, dates for sweetness, and oats for thickness. And all those healthy, whole ingredients made up for a real treat and the smoothie bowl was worth every bite.

As for the thali, I would say – Thali is not a thali till you get hit by a ‘how am I going to finish all this’ fatigue.

Thali is said to be a complete representation of different tastes which are essential for a balanced meal and a balanced body. Pleasing to the eyes, taste buds, and nose, the vegan thali proves to be an overall sensory delight and a meal that demanded a nice long nap afterward.

The thali had rice, papad, chapattis, lauki ki sabzi, rajma, dal, salad, and pickle. Lenny mentioned that the items in the thali change every day. For a vegetarian like me, all the items were just how they should ideally be cooked, without tons of spices, just aptly boiled, palatable and full of freshness. The rajma was without much oil or spices but it was delicious and blended well with the rice. Even the dal was so different in taste and thick in consistency. The lauki was so simple, almost without any sight of oil and I couldn’t have enough of it with those fresh and extremely soft chapattis. I am not too fond of lauki but this one will always be a favorite. It was so mild yet full of flavor. I wondered what did the chefs do in the kitchen. This thali is surely a must if you visit this place. It’s so sattvic in nature and just connects you with the roots.

As I enjoyed my meal, Lenny joined in to tell me more about the restaurant “The core virtue of the vegan concept is that it enables, through the tiniest efforts, the prevention of vast amounts of animal suffering and environmental degradation. My intention here is to define vegan in a way that maximizes its power to encourage people to embrace plant-based lifestyles.”

He continued ” A plant-based diet requires only one-third of the land needed to support a meat and dairy diet. With rising global food and water insecurity due to a myriad of environmental and socio-economic problems, there’s never been a better time to adopt a more sustainable way of living. Avoiding animal products is not just one of the simplest ways an individual can reduce the strain on food as well as other resources, it’s the simplest way to take a stand against inefficient food systems which disproportionately affects the poorest people all over the world.”

He concluded ” Every time we make the switch from an animal product to a vegan one we are standing up for farmed animals everywhere. Going vegan is easier than ever before with veganism becoming increasingly mainstream as more and more people from all walks of life discover the benefits of living this way. Everything that you have here, whether its chocolate, cheese,  or the burger bun is all homegrown and vegan. We use our homegrown herbs, greens, and vegetables as well. Everything here comes from our earth ”

I was totally enjoying those conversations, making new friends like Lenny and expanding my knowledge which always happens the best when you share. Inga, Lenny’s partner in the business came in after some time as well and joined in the conversation.

After the meal was over, Lenny took me around the whole place. We went to the kitchen where I again met Akesh. Then Lenny got a big box from his refrigerator. Oh Boy, this box had all the homegrown herbs that you can think of, these come straight from the farm to the salads and other dishes that they serve here. They looked lovely – pinks, reds, greens, all of them were such a fresh sight on that tiring day. I had one of the microgreens and it was fresh like heaven! It was like the last thing I needed to make that headache go away, and it worked like that magic pill!

We then went to the counter inside where Lenny explained how the hemp seed oil is extracted and how adding those fresh organic hemp seeds gives a different meaning to any dish. In its small seed, hemp packs a good source of amino acids, protein, fiber, and essential fatty acids. Hemp is also considered to be more allergy-free than some plant proteins. You can buy the hemp seed here at a minimum price of Rs 400/- and I would say don’t give it a miss when you visit here anytime.

We took a few steps ahead and stopped at the small counter which had the stacks of their vegan chocolates. This, was simply irresistible knowing how much of a chocolate fanatic I am. The beautiful white and black wrappers looked graceful. “We have named our chocolates- Unus”. Unus is an Urdu word and that means love. ” Lenny exclaimed. I thought to myself – wow, what a pretty name. Well, not just the chocolates but even this place was full of love!

I spent a few more minutes with Lenny and his partner. We simply bonded over our love for vegan and animals, of course, the love for food as well.

After a few minutes, my friends called and it was time to leave. We had decided to head over to the beach for some downtime. Oh, our conversations just never stopped and our sessions on the beach almost became famous at Anjuna.

I bid my goodbyes and headed back to our guesthouse walking out of a mosaic walled semicircle which acts as a lovely door to the soul that lives inside “Soul Booster”.

It was a chaotic Thursday in February. On the bed, lay my entire rescue gear for the Himachal trip – My snow jackets, mufflers, woolen gloves and socks, monkey caps, snow shoes, etc. It was a pretty colorful sight to behold, and so within the next few minutes that clumsy layout found its way on my Instagram stories – #allthatpacking….the trip starts here!

My excitement levels were soaring high if anybody could have measured I bet they must have beaten the temperature at the snow-laden Himalayan peaks! But alas, this was not supposed to last! After all the overload of instructions from friends and family and those typical mommy banters of “dos and don’ts” of what not to do, what to avoid, how to avoid catching a cold, etc. etc. I suddenly found myself walking around in my loose tropical t-shirts, that funky pair of chappals, big glares and layers of sunscreen on that long road, perhaps the most photographed lane of Goa. Remember, the pristine narrow road lined with palm trees on either side, of the Dear Zindagi fame? Yes, That’s the Parra road for you!

Due to a last-minute goof-up, our Himachal trip got canceled and to recover from those deep drawn-out emotions, we found ourselves on the way to Goa for a quick rebound but alas…..a long Goan affair for me!

We had put up at Anjuna, near St. Anthony’s chapel, just a minute walk from the Anjuna beach and everything was almost paradisaical.

One fine evening, as I was wandering along the adjoining lane from our guesthouse to the Anjuna beach, a pleasing and adorable, quaint heritage villa caught on my eye on the right. The typical v-shaped daunting pillars mostly found in ancestral homes down in the south and some palaces were there right at the entrance inside. These rested on a beautiful red oxide flooring. This is the same red oxide flooring that takes us back to the bygone era and brings back the visits to the grandparent’s house. It was rich and glossy with age. A sloth of hanging greens from the tapered wooden roof, a few blocks of stone engraved in the grassy earth leading to the entrance from the main gate along with a black slate board which read “Coffees, Desserts, sandwiches, etc.”  was enough to refresh my senses and send that link to my brain that perhaps some nice coffee at this place was just waiting for me. I told myself “this place has to be explored.” I wasn’t sure if it was a cafe or there was perhaps more to it. There was a small signage outside which read “Clay”.

The next day, right at 5:00 in the evening, I found my feet neatly grounded on the red oxide flooring at the porch, my eyes staring at the warmth inside because the main door was wide open. Two wooden rocking chairs made merry with an old wooden chest that lay right in front of it. A few planters, some books and a lot of old-world charm just added to the comeliness and perfect symmetry of this place.

Right ahead of this, was what I saw a minimalistic setup of modern-looking wooden table with white chairs in another room. It had those old wooden windows with vertical railings, the whole setup was straight out of my imagination. I just thought that perhaps if I open the windows, there would be a peacock waiting for me outside, such was the feeling!

It was the first of many things ‘old world’, about to unfurl.. .In fact, this precious gem was the reason for the interlude in Goa. As heritage restoration and preservation enthusiasts and lovers of earthy cafes, my interest peaked even more as “Clay” married these elements beautifully.

Barely as I had gathered my varying thoughts about this place, I was welcomed by Nihar, a charming guy who welcomed me and politely answered those numerous questions that were popping in my head. “Hi, is this a Cafe?” I asked. “Yes”, he said….”but there’s more to it….”

“Slippers outside please”, he remarked and we headed to the left, where after pushing open an arched wooden door, I came across a huge room where wooden tables and old cane chairs headlined the main story. Rustic blue and white rugs, those typical old railing windows, bulky switchboards from the past, minimalistic photo frames on the walls, warm lighting and inverted cane basket lights from the ceiling added to the refinement in the room coupled with a deep feeling of comfort as if it was just made for me. At this place, you could just be yourself without worrying about being noticed or anybody peeping into your privacy.

“This is where we work, this is where everyone can work, relax, chill, have food and beverages and just do whatever they want. ” He remarked. “This is the age of entrepreneurs and freelancers. Individuals with an active imagination, re-imagining the world. While they do that, we at Clay, are re-imagining their workspaces. Clay is here to create a co-working space designed to bring together diverse ideas, skills, people under one roof giving them the flexibility they need while they go in pursuit of their dreams. Thus creating a unique workspace that becomes a versatile ground for creativity, collaboration and music as one unwinds in Goa”

He added “With Clay, utilize your time and save money with high-speed internet access, uninterrupted power supply and everything you want for the smooth functioning of your work. We provide you an atmosphere of positive vibes, young crowd, and professionals that inspire you along with freshly brewed coffee, of course…Oh, and yeah, you can just chill and have your friends over at the garden outside after you are done working. We will join in too for a house party”!

“Last but not the least,” he said, “we have an in-house cafe “Dough Ho” that provides a soothing counterpoint to the daily grind. Order your coffees, sandwiches, desserts whatever, and satiate your taste buds as you work at your pace at Clay!

Even as my ears were glued to what Nihar said and my eyes rolled in the all over the place to admire the comely beauty of the place, I thought to myself – Wow, such a modest yet highly practical and comfortable co-working zone. All in all, a chill zone, with inviting walls, cool comfy spaces, comprised of a vibrant yet still energy and like-minded people to interact with… It’s a place where you get to learn and grow just by being in a creative environment. “Phew, what a bonus I just got!

“Let me show you the whole place.” Nihar remarked.

Then we crossed over to the other side where there was a decent enough room for four tables along with chairs. A mattress with that typical paisley design bed sheet on the floor made for a stylish yet comfortable sight. Comfy cushions on it made for an earthy look. On top of that, there were shelves inside the wall which had amazing showpieces, earthen pots, a small antique wooden ship, some really old vintage looking books.

Just as I was looking at these wonders, there was a voice ” Hi, Lionel here. Welcome to our space. I hope you have a good time discovering it”. Lionel is another person who works here, smiling and charming as always. I had a warm greeting with him and as he left, my eyes caught the dream catcher that was hung on top of an iron rod on the table behind.

The room also had the same wooden railing window which overlooked outside, all painted in a beautiful shade of blue. The soft sun looked promising outside. The glass planters on the tables, neat art frames on the walls, those white cane woven antique chairs, earthen pots in the shelves with soft yellow lighting made for a cohesive design all on its own. Antiques and eclectic novelties often remain a favorite to personalize spaces with a unique style, but it might be hard to mix these accent pieces to give a new meaning to a place, but Clay was a beautiful amalgamation of all this.. Rustic finds emphasized in traditional bohemian style made every room stand out.

Nihar then took me over to the other room as we crossed the “chaukhat”. This was a small room with a lovely countertop on the right and to the left was a huge room which was the kitchen. A petite charming woman smiled at me. “Hello, Snigdhaa, lovely meeting you, we will talk in a while”, she beamed as she went about with her daily chores. She was Rishika, the chef who manages Dough Ho and is responsible for all the palatable stuff served there. As we walked back to see the rest of the space, an earthen brown pot kept neatly on an antique sideboard caught my attention… Besides, that was a trail of glasses and mugs. “That’s the water jug”. We believe in returning back to roots”. Nihar exclaimed.

From here we went straight to the garden outside. A space good enough for people to lounge around on the hammock and just enjoy some wonderful evenings and afternoons staying put on the green grass, just soaking in all the Goan vibes in its eternity. This was the party zone and also the relaxation area. Nihar added “Move around here. Have your coffee and drinks. Party… just chill and enjoy your time at Clay here.”

The clock struck 5:30 pm now as I glanced at my watch. That mad craving of a coffee was drying up my throat and my stomach was aching because I hadn’t eaten anything since an early lunch. I headed inside and Lionel welcomed me towards one of the tables inside that was just adjacent to the window. My friend Minal got my laptop and we just decided to sit here and enjoy some light conversations as I replied to my emails that I hadn’t even opened up since I landed in Goa.

The soft sun now shone on our faces through the window and the cool breeze softly turned up the pages of the new novel that Minal decided to read through. Our order came just a few minutes later from the kitchen of Dough Ho. The lemon berry slice, the banana chocolate chip cake, and the Good Ol’ Coffees, the first sight of which was enough to make me tipsy turvy as this “home away from home” kind of a place was just looking too good.

The banana chocolate chip cake was a sophisticated delight, I should say. It was a moist banana cake with lots of chocolate chips and an oatmeal crumble topping. I dug my spoon in it, hot and moist as it was, and within the first bite, I could feel the dash of chocolate and the moistness of the banana inside even as the crispy top made for a perfect bridge to reach the richness of the cake that lay in the center. Minal exclaimed – “This is one of the best I have ever had”, with her hand firmly holding the cup which had the good ol coffee. I stared into mine and a sweet dimple popped in. Coffee is always my happy nothing. This was a coffee not too mild, not too strong but with a certain character that I thought would make it a hit with all the others. The good ol coffee was simple, flavorful, and familiar.”Smooth and balanced”, this blend was aimed to please and warm a wide audience of hot-coffee enthusiasts, I thought.

The restless creature in me soon found myself making rounds of the place with my camera and I happened to interact with a few of the people who were only too welcoming to share a few words about themselves as they went about working there as co-workers. Yeah, we shared our social media id’s and, suddenly from strangers they became friends. The best part of travel, I bet. As I and Minal discussed our plan for the night, Lionel came in – “Anything else?” At the spur of the moment, I blurted – Do you have chocolate cupcakes? In the hindsight, I could see a deep shocking expression on Minal’s face, with all that sugar rush she knew I would simply end up retiring on the bed on the way out. “Few minutes”, Lionel remarked, and we both headed to finish off the blueberry lime slice.

The deep yellow color and the blueberries submerged on the top made for a pretty picture against the wooden top, the textured white walls and the small earthen planters on the table. This was creamy, mild in taste and the taste of the lemon was just so refreshing. It simply melted and within a few minutes all that we saw were just a few artworks made with the spoons all over the plate. By now, the cupcakes arrived, and they were damn good-looking, I would say. Full marks for the presentation. The white terracotta plate with the few strawberries and sprinkle of cocoa powder made the sight so inviting.

Yeah, I had them all, and the cupcakes were incredibly moist and tender without being too delicate or crumbly. And the frosting was just so light and creamy. The tummy was full but I was still drooling even after indulging in them all. It was 7:00 pm, we paid the bill, held our handbags, exchanged smiles with Rishika, Nihar, and Lionel and made our way to the exit. The smell of the wet earth and grass filled our nostrils as we walked out towards the small gate and closed it off.

We heard Lionel from behind – “Please come back soon!” And I said – “Yes, this is my permanent happy place now. You shall see me often here!” Smiles were exchanged and I and Minal walked off to our guest house.

What you take away from Clay –

Open every day except Sunday, and nestled within a quiet by-lane in Anjuna near St Anthony Chapel, the cafe offers—within serene, minimalist environs—meticulously crafted coffees, lemon teas, healthy drinks, and some lip-smacking desserts. With plenty of plug points and friendly staff, get work done over fresh salads, teacakes and cookies, their special signature dark chocolate cake and a delectable array of comfort fare—made in-house, upon order. Take a moment to sip, savor, slow down as you get to work in a growth-ready environment, a place where you get the opportunity to collaborate, create and grow together with like-minded co-workers.

Think baskets, planters made of different kinds of materials, macramé wall hangings, natural fiber rugs, colorful Persian or Turkish rugs, wood furniture, upholstery, even artwork and stacks of books as your companions here! Plants just give that effortless “jungle” natural vibe, and they are amazing and they are lots here! And the textured photo framed walls, those wooden rocking chairs in the corner, the gorgeous cabinet painted a lush tropical green – give such a distinct character to Clay!

The place thrives on those little imperfections which can make people feel more relaxed and at ease within this space. And you get to inhale some wonderful smells here – whether it’s via a good-ol’ scented candle, essential oils, incense, or even just simmering some delicious ingredients on your stovetop.

Items that somehow tell a story or special things you picked up on your travels will bring you joy on a daily basis and will be a reminder of your life journey here. Kind of like looking at a photo album, except that you live inside it!

Step inside this villa and you are instantly taken back in time to a bustling home inside “Clay” in its heyday.

The flower coming out of the bud signifies a new birth…as I saw this on the wall of a room here, I was assured that a stay at Shanti Mandir is the birth of a new paradigm in life… as we take the time to slow down, to find the stillness in quiet moments of reflection and contemplation, this is where we find the real yogi within.

As I walked past the wooden swing nestled among the lush green forests just past sunset, I was reminded of some rooted conversations, unending promises of love and laughter and some light-hearted moments that people might have shared here…it spoke to me in several ways!

Not too far off from here, powerful devotional chants filled up the air, in a temporary shed where a few young students sat peacefully and “performed a havan”. The perfectly synced sounds reverberated through the air like as if they had begun chanting the mantra of life, I thought.

From a little white signature door which said “Mujhe band rakhein” (Keep me closed) to the Gobar uplas (cow dung cakes) that lay on the ground to the small pots of sand that looked like blessings of positivity and adorned all the pathways, it’s the little things at Shanti Mandir that make a way straight to your heart.. you could actually say – “God lies in small things” here. It’s as if everything has life and everything speaks to you ..Ah well!! they are not things but life itself!

The Scenic Journey…

It was 7:30 am on a bright Sunday morning that I began my journey towards Shanti Mandir, an Ashram that lies about 200 km from Mumbai. It is situated in a village in Gujarat called Magodh and roughly takes about 3.5 hours to reach there by road. All through the journey I was reminded of what my mom taught me as a child ” The word ashram has actually been derived from a Sanskrit word “Srama” which means religious exertion”.

As we reached Shanti Mandir and I put my first foot down, I wasn’t surprised by what mom had taught me. Shanti Mandir is this and much more…like a heaven of blissful little things and a secluded dwelling of a Hindu sage waiting to be explored! I saw a bird’s nest cradled in a crook of a large, leafless bush about my height a few yards from the door. The whole scene, was unnervingly crisp. It was like watching a scene in Imax, every corner in laser focus. Few minutes of being here was already making a huge difference, I thought.

What adds to the mystified beauty is the 20-25 minutes way up to the Ashram as you enter the village Magodh. Neat and smooth roads and village folklore made up for such a delight. As we waited at the railway crossing, the Swaraj express (starting from and Mumbai and ending at Jammu ) passed through the railway tracks…time came to a standstill as we started at the charms of the village life here!

 The Welcome at Shanti Hastkala…

It was pleasant, and the outdoors seemed spring-loaded with potential: the buds on the trees were sharp little things, and hundreds of fuzzy fiddlehead ferns dotted the floor, curled snug.

A bright green tuktuk, a Ganesha statue made out of stone and several Ayurvedic medicinal plants line the pathway that leads to Shanti Hastkala – a voluntary organization made to enable and empower rural Indian women and started around 15 years back. It gives them the opportunity to hone their talent,  showcase their skills and make them financially independent. Red and white brick walls, white windows with colorful folk art motifs and lights made of waste fabric fill up the space with kaleidoscopic colors and evokes nostalgic emotions. Decorative objects, ornaments, folk artworks  blend different cultures with modern ideas returning people to the origins and connecting them to traditions here.

We were welcomed with the homegrown lemongrass and ginger tea and the extreme warmness of staff. The founder, Ms. Chideshwari Devi ji and the female and male staff all clad in their traditional best and a glorious smile on their faces gave us an introduction of the place and took us around.

Several enterprising and young women were engulfed in stitching clothes in one section. In the open verandah there were two women who made incense sticks and decorative handbags. As I interacted with all, I realized how much they loved being here each day and what a wonderful difference the place was making to them and their lives. Amongst the women who were stitching, there was a sweet gentleman too. Rambhuvan as he introduced himself to me and I got chatting with him. He told me how he started off as a security guard here and today he stitches yards of beautiful colorful fabrics every day. Perhaps the creative streak of the place couldn’t hold him at the gate for too long.

Adjacent to this room, is the store – the Hastkala store which houses the most incredible and fascinating stuff all portraying cultural heritage of our motherland. Everything here lands a personality to the room – traditional Indian suits, Long skirts, Lehengas, Kurtis, Dupattas, Bags, Key chains, Pouches, Natural incense sticks, Homemade pickles and Fruit pulp, Dried mangoes, bananas and other fruits, Tooth powders and 100% natural kumkum add to their long range of natural beauty products.

For everyone who recognizes the need of sustainability, and appreciates the fact that eco-friendly clothing and products are best for the skin and overall health, this is the place to be!

The rejuvenation at Punarnava…

It was a little into afternoon now. One of the staff members came with the most exciting message……yes! it was time for the massage, the full body massage at Punarnava. With a spring in my step, I found myself hurrying towards their holistic centre which is based on the principles of Ayurveda and the ancient science. There are 10 massage rooms all with unique names and the masseurs make you feel like a child out of their own womb during the entire massage.

Punarnava is a creeping perennial herb that is found growing as a weed throughout India. ‘Punarnava’ also means ‘to be born anew’ in Sanskrit. The center is one of those great examples of how nature can be used for optimizing our health forever……. An integrated center for wellbeing combining Panchakarma, Ayurveda, Naturopathy, Psychotherapy, it aims to provide the same rejuvenating experience and also provides customized plans and treatments to cure one’s diseases and ailments, all the natural way!

I was advised the “Reti sek” (warm sand bag) massage and thoroughly loved every minute of it, my mind and body literally felt a few kilos lighter. It was most relaxing and rejuvenating…exactly the way you should be feeling after a good massage. As I walked out of the massage room and began wandering and exploring the place, I found magic in almost every nook and corner! I also met Reena, a sweet and hardworking girl who was busy getting lunch for someone but was really delighted when I captured her in my lenses.

I could see the fuzz on the slowly unfurling fiddleheads from yards away. For the first time in my life, I heard the dead leaves on the forest floor settling on one another.

The satsang and the divinity…

As I was gladly wandering, I heard the Satsang somewhere in the distance and made my way towards it. A structured pedestal was where it was being held in the ashram. Guru Nityanand ji along with the attendees and the staff made it all so memorable. Satsang completes the celebration once our stress is removed – we sing and dance and reflect on the deeper questions that give meaning to life. From the perspective of contemporary western culture it combines normally separated activities – philosophy, discussion of key issues for successful living, and music and dance.

It was heartening to see foreigners imbibing everything that the ashram has to offer and finding answers to their quest. The main motive of this ashram that was founded in 1987,is self-inquiry as a path to liberation. It is a unique spiritual and value based educational institution. The ashram and the institutions created by it, aims at establishing a value based society.

With all the positivity and the peaceful energy being soaked in, it was 2:00 pm and now it was time for the simple satvik lunch that is the highlight of this highly inspirational place. Of course, this was my most awaited moment here! I find a good meal more fun than even a really high-quality bit of oxygen 🙂

The Lunch and the pure ideologies….

As we made our way to the eating hall, I realized this place was so surreal. It wore a certain calmness that is so contrasting to how we eat food in the urban setting. The wooden columns, with delicate carvings in its open hall, rather resemble the wooden carvings on columns in temples of the ancient India. With a low seating arrangement and colorful upholstery, the place was simple, peaceful, refined, well-formed and comely in nature. The bronze statue of Natraj caught my eye on my end while old and rustic looking study table and the golden urlis with flowers at the entrance transported me to another world-perhaps one where there is no place for any vice!

As we gathered here, Dr. Rakhee Thakar made her way. A radiant personality with a mesmerizing aura about her. She had a certain composure which is difficult to describe and as he welcomed us all, it was not difficult to ascertain that most of us were smitten by her. She is the medical expert at Punarnava and is dedicated to spreading the ancient wisdom of this science of life to the world, keeping it truly traditional and authentic.

We all sat down for the satvik lunch. As I gathered a long breath, the staff came in and started pouring one dish after the other in our steel thalis. My eyes lit up like as if I had found my little piece of heaven. There was papdi ki sabzi, toor dal, lauki ki sabzi, wheat rotis and ragi rotis. Dr. Rakhee’s plate had a certain toor daal with a special herb Agastya which is grown in their own garden there. She had everything in her plate that is served to everyone who stays at Punarnava and avails of any Ayurvedic treatments there. On prodding further she told us, how the herb helps in treating cough, cold, fever, weakness, indigestion, jaundice, excessive heat in body etc. Wow, what a healthy way to have meals, isn’t it? The lunch was indeed more therapeutic than I had thought.

Such is the sanctity of satvik food. It’s really minimalistic in texture and property, made with minimum oil, no hard masalas and without garlic or onion. At the end of it, there was a laddoo too made with jaggery, after all as Indians we have grown up in a scenario where Dessert was always what rounded out and finished a meal, so you feel like something is missing if you don’t have it. The jaggery laddoo indeed left me content and tickled me pink!

By now it was almost 3:00pm as the place had started to grow in us, it left us more inquisitive to know about the various concepts of Punarnava and how Ayurveda is the only traditional solution to modern health conditions. For around 1.5 hours, we had completely lost the track of time. Dr. Rakhee told us how principles of Ayurveda help to find balance through eating the right quantity and quality of food congenial to our constitution and in adopting some practices which help in attaining a happy and calm mind, intellect, free senses and a pleasant soul.

There is so much here…everything helps you to connect with yourself!

The walk around the Ashram..

And perhaps now as evening  descended, and everyone got busy with the simple Chiwda and Chai being served as snacks, I quietly sneaked out to explore more of what still had to be explored. I found Agastya tree deep inside the woods somewhere, and then my eyes found another marvel…as the sun went down, the golden rays fell on the three jars kept on a wooden perch. As I went closer and tried to open one of them, Dr. Rakhee’s gentle voice spoke from behind “These are murabbas, and this one is Gulab ka murabba”. As I dug into each one, I could smell the freshness and the inherent flavor of each jar. There was Agastya ka murabba, Gulab ka murabba and Shalmali ka murabba. Agastya murabba is good for arthritis and joint pains while Shalmali ka murabba does wonders in pregnancy, excessive fluid build-up and bleeding. And as Dr. Rakhee made me savor each one, I realized how each one had a distinct flavor…no doubt,  these recipes from our grandma’s kitchen are still so loved in an era of apple pies and chocolate éclairs.

As I was almost done with having a few spoonfuls of each murabba, I heard my folks call me out. Chideshwari ji with her evergreen smile and demeanor directed us all to have a long walk with her. Yes, it was time to see and explore more at Shanti Mandir.  We walked through the mango trees around which the Ashram is built (every construction in the Ashram is done around the Mango tress and not the other way round) and the beautiful brick-laden pathways. All along I felt  the cool evening  breeze swaying my hair and the only sound I could hear was the sound of my own feet as you made way through the fallen leaves.

Shanti Mandir is even more than what I thought of. We came across the rooms where people can stay in. Neat, full of positivity and engulfed with charming surroundings, the stay facility is just what you would most need to experience this place in fullness. Ideal option for those looking for an enchanting recluse, the rooms cover about anything and everything you’d need to make your stay a perfect one!

As we wandered more, we came across the beautiful quaint temple beautifully lit up with evening lights, the school for children where Vedic education is the curriculum and learning the Vedas is a way of life, the dedicated Gowshala where cows and calves have found an endearing life, the open area where yoga classes are held every day and the dining area where people sit down on the floor and have meals with their gurus every single day. We also came across a group of students who conduct the Havan each day during the sunset, the experience was endearing. As the smoke of the fire blended with the mantras, it was almost like a magic spell. There’s also an open amphitheatre where movies are screened for children who are offered free education here at Shanti Mandir. It’s a Sanskrit school from class 8th to M.A here and next year it will be an English medium school with Sanskrit from nursery to class 10th.

Conversations flowed and it was already 7:30 pm now, it was time to leave, as my sister told me….we exchanged pleasantry notes and held our goodie bags close that Chideshwari ji had given us. It was dark and serene. The place had owned us by now. Learning to let go of negativity sounds Hallmark-level trite, but there it was. Shanti Mandir is a spiritual home in itself!

The simplicity and the difference it made….

As you stay here, you can slow down even more by taking a nap, simply spending time reading on the benches, or enjoying a massage – it’s all up to you! If you wish to add on extra nights as a guest, I am sure you won’t be disappointed. (It’s really affordable too with only Rs. 500 per night)

Set in a quiet village, Shanti Mandir is close to Tithal Beach and the Sai Baba Mandir and is set against a backdrop of flowers and verdant green. Landscaped gardens and lawns, a world of timeless beauty. Truly, at Shanti Mandir, you are one with nature’s beauty.

I could decouple, however briefly, my sense of self from the meat sack of mind and body. And that decoupling gave me the ability to actually control where that sack was headed next.

When I faced my morning commute, I was less filled with the sense of existential malaise that used to come when I was wedged between two sets of shoulders, my forehead knocking lightly against the backpack of the person ahead of me.

How to reach:

By road, Magodh is just 3.5 hours away. A road trip from Mumbai via bus or a car would take 3- 3.5 hours. One can opt for Neeta travels or any of the other travels and tour companies while opting for a bus travel. The ticket range is between Rs. 500-700.

Via train:

If you plan to take a train then Surat Intercity Express is a good option. It is a super fast express train that runs between Bandra terminus and Surat and operates as a daily service. It takes about 3 hrs and is a good option for travelers who don’t prefer to travel via road.

Online bookings can be found for both.